Bias binding, bias tape, what’s in a name? All synonyms for the same wonderful sewing ribbon: a folded ribbon that is cut on the bias and with which you can trim your sewing work very neatly. The angled cutting direction ensures that the ribbon turns beautifully in the curves.But how do you ensure that your bias tape is stitched neatly on both sides? This method shows you step by step how to sew neat borders. We tested several methods and this one guarantees the best results!
In this tutorial, we use our French Terry bias tapes. The method also works for other bias ribbons, such as our ribbons in viscose!
Step 1: ironing
- Fold the ribbon in half over its entire length. Do this as accurately as possible.
Step 2: baste stitching (regular sewing machine)
Follow this step with the regular sewing machine. If you are using a serging machine, look at the next picture.
- Fold the bias tape open completely and place it with the right side of the bias tape on the wrong side of the fabric. Make sure the edges are aligned.
- Make sure the thread in the bobbin is the same colour as the fabric.
- Stitch exactly in the first ” gutter ” of the bias tape. This is a basting stitch, if it is not for the curves, you can use a longer stitch length for this.
Step 2: baste stitching (serger)
With serger:
- Fold the bias tape open completely and place it with the right side of the bias tape on the wrong side of the fabric. Make sure the edges are aligned.
- Stitch the bias ribbon to the fabric: make sure your left needle goes exactly into the first ” gutter ” of the bias ribbon. (See dotted line on the photo). Don’t worry if your knife cuts the edge of the fabric and the bias tape when doing this.
Step 3: folding and ironing
- Fold the bias tape around the edge of your fabric, to the right side of the fabric. Make sure that the folded edge of the bias tape covers the baste stitching.
- Iron out well once more.
Step 4: pinning
- Pin the bias tape in place. For long straight stretches, you can work without pins. If you want a very clean result, especially in curves, pinning is definitely a good idea.
Step 5: topstitch
- Make sure your thread is the same colour as your bias ribbon, both in the bobbin and on the spool.
- Topstitch a few mm from the edge of the ribbon. If your machine allows you to, the best way to do this is to move your needle off centre and align the centre of your presser foot with the edge of the ribbon. If you have worked accurately, the stitching on the bottom will also go through the bias tape. If you’re a little off, that’s not a problem: the basting stitch ensures that your ribbon is stuck on both sides.
Ready! Or wait… read some more about how to do it in the curves.
Bias tape in curves
- For the curves, it is a matter of positioning the first (auxiliary) stitch very precisely, and aligning the edge of the bias tape with the edge of the fabric. If you do this accurately, the ribbon will follow the curve nicely when you fold it over the fabric edge.
Curving corners
For example bias tape around a bib, or the curve in the skirt/shorts from our Salt & Sweet pattern (coming soon!).
- Make sure you do not stretch the bias tape while stitching. Otherwise the fabric will no longer lay flat in the end result.
- Fold the bias ribbon back into shape with great care before ironing. In the bend, it tends to be unevenly distributed over the front and back. Therefore, fold it neatly back in half before ironing and pin it in place.
Hollow curves
- With a hollow curve, you can pull on the ribbon a bit while sewing. How hard you stretch depends on your project. For a project where the curve will be flat in the end result (for example, the neck of a bib) stretch it very slightly. For example, for a neck or sleeve opening, you may pull a little harder.
ABOUT BLUE BIAS TAPES
French Terry bias tape consists of our French Terry, cut on diagonal thread and treated to reduce thickness. The result is a sturdy, moderately elastic, easy-to-process bias ribbon.
So you don’t use it as a very stretchy ribbon, but it does combine perfectly with stretchy fabrics and even makes them easier to process. Think: shorts, bathrobes, bibs, spaghetti straps,… possibilities abound.
â–¶ OUR OWN RAINBOW
At About Blue, we like to build! No unstable collections that are forgotten after one season, but a solid concept that you can enjoy for a long time. That is why we build all our collections on the basis of a fixed colour chart. So that piece of bias ribbon in your closet matches today’s fabric. But the colour also returns in earlier and later prints from our collection. So you can build a mix & match wardrobe. And so you can keep on combining with your stock!
â–¶ OEKO-TEX
Our bias tapes are Oeko-tex labelled, and we are proud of it. Because when you take the time to sew, for yourself or for someone else, you do it with love! You do not want fabrics that have been produced with harmful products, do you? About Blue fabrics and ribbings are 100% free of chemicals.
